Stripping and Refinishing Furniture
Overview:
If you want to apply a new wood finish to furniture it has
to be stripped to bare wood.
If all you
want to do is repaint the piece it only needs to be scraped, cleaned and sanded before application.
Stripping
and refinishing furniture is a messy process however, it’s
necessary for a professional result. Although stripping wood
furniture is an arduous process it’s well worth it to
recapture the original beauty of the wood.
The strippers used in stripping and refinishing furniture comes in a paste or liquid form. Paste strippers
are thick and gooey and cling to vertical surfaces as well
as nooks and crannies of furniture. They're great for
stripping thick layers of finish equally. Liquid strippers
are more difficult to work with but they work well to remove
thin finishes. Usually I use a paste stripper to remove most
of the finish then a liquid stripper to remove remaining
finish in hard to reach spots.
Be aware that many furniture-stripping products contain
caustic chemicals. Use them with caution in a
well-ventilated space, outdoors if possible, or in a well
vented area.
How to do
it:
Step 1:
Apply the
stripper starting with a paste stripper. Read the label
carefully so you understand the manufacturer’s directions
and safety instructions. Place the furniture on newspapers
or a drop cloth. Wear rubber gloves and safety glasses.
Brush on the stripper working from the top to bottom.
Brush it on carefully and if gets on your skin rinse
it off immediately with clean water.
Step
2:
Allow the
stripper to do its work, do no rush the process. Wait as
long as directed on the label before scraping off the old
finish and stripper. Use a wide-bladed putty knife for
scraping. Take
care to not gouge the wood. Plastic putty knives are a good
and inexpensive alternative if you don't want to alter a
metal knife.
Step 3:
Use steel
wool on irregular surfaces of legs or carved moldings.
Start with a coarse grade of steel wool (#00, double aught)
to remove most of the stripper and finish. Repeat the
process using a very fine steel wool #000 (triple aught) or
#0000 (four aught).
Synthetic steel wool is a good substitute for regular
steel wool as it does not break up like regular steel wool.
Step 4:
Use a small
wire brush or toothbrush for carved surfaces.
Legs and bedposts often have recessed details that need
special work. After the surrounding areas have been
stripped, brush fresh stripper into the recessed areas and
let the stripper work again. Remove the stripper and old
finish with a soft wire brush or toothbrush.
Step
5:
Wash off all
the residue material with mineral spirits to ensure that the
new finish will adhere. Wipe the piece with a rag and plenty
of mineral spirits or paint thinner. If there are areas
where some of the old finish is still intact reapply
stripper to the areas, remove it after the recommended time,
and rinse again with mineral spirits.
Now you are
ready to apply your desired finish. I recommend using a
water base stain. It is much easier to work than oil stain
and you can get the shade you desire by adding more stain
powder to the mixture. After staining let dry thoroughly
apply two or three coasts of varnish, and two applications
of a hard furniture paste wax. Although it was a lot of work
you now have a marvelous piece of refinished furniture that
you can be proud of.
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